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| Hotel Melville |
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| Hotel Melville |
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| El Malecon |
Thursday, December 03, 2015
Mazatlan to Durango - July 30th, 2015
I left Mazatlan late after breakfast on the Malecon. On the road I met Diego riding a R1200GS home to Durango. The quota road is cool with all the tunnels and bridges. The 2 km tunnel which drops down into the heart of the mountains was impressive. There was a lot of construction, and according to Diego, El Espinazo del Diablo would have been quicker since all the trucks take the quota these days. At the top of the mountains we we hit a cloudburst and electrical storm. Chunks of ice were falling from the sky, no mere hail this. I couldn't hold the grips due to the bruising on my fingers from the huge hail and had to pull over. In Durango I followed Diego through back streets to Hotel Posada San Agustin. I got the last room, behind reception, without a window. The price is right and the R100R is enjoying the company and admiring looks in the lobby.
Durango to Parral - July 31st, 2015
The shining path to Santa Maria Del Oro
It was a cool and bright morning in Durango after a night of rain and thunder. I ignored the thick red line on my map and headed north west towards Santiago Papasquiaro. A nice two lane road through the hills. Corn fields and ranches. Interesting rock formations and roadside caves converted to shrines. I heard that the road would eventually lead me back to highway 45, my map showed nothing. North of Tepehuanes is a sign pointing to "Santa Maria Del Oro", and there an amazing road begins. It is bright and pristine, smooth and shining, poured-in-place concrete. It passes through beautiful valleys, with one small village of decaying adobe houses, log cabins and a few corn fields. It wraps up and around rocky cliffs and rugged mountains. Further north there are a few ranches. There are very few cars, no big trucks, no busses, a beat pick-up here and there. This must be one of the best roads in Mexico. It dissapears as suddenly and mysteriously as it appeared. When it reaches Santa Maria Del Oro, a typical town of concrete buildings selling ranch supplies and truck parts, it turnes to crummy broken up pavers, and then to asphalt infested with rim bending spoke breaking pot holes.
Why is this most perfect, almost irridescent, road here? Whete did it come from?
Back on the thick red line that is Highway 45 the asphalt was dark and depressing, construction zones were ever-present and inescapable. Fortunaly it wasn't raining, dust clouds are better than slick mud.
Arrived at the Hotel Moreira in Parral with it's big windows and good restaurant.
It was a cool and bright morning in Durango after a night of rain and thunder. I ignored the thick red line on my map and headed north west towards Santiago Papasquiaro. A nice two lane road through the hills. Corn fields and ranches. Interesting rock formations and roadside caves converted to shrines. I heard that the road would eventually lead me back to highway 45, my map showed nothing. North of Tepehuanes is a sign pointing to "Santa Maria Del Oro", and there an amazing road begins. It is bright and pristine, smooth and shining, poured-in-place concrete. It passes through beautiful valleys, with one small village of decaying adobe houses, log cabins and a few corn fields. It wraps up and around rocky cliffs and rugged mountains. Further north there are a few ranches. There are very few cars, no big trucks, no busses, a beat pick-up here and there. This must be one of the best roads in Mexico. It dissapears as suddenly and mysteriously as it appeared. When it reaches Santa Maria Del Oro, a typical town of concrete buildings selling ranch supplies and truck parts, it turnes to crummy broken up pavers, and then to asphalt infested with rim bending spoke breaking pot holes.
Why is this most perfect, almost irridescent, road here? Whete did it come from?
Back on the thick red line that is Highway 45 the asphalt was dark and depressing, construction zones were ever-present and inescapable. Fortunaly it wasn't raining, dust clouds are better than slick mud.
Arrived at the Hotel Moreira in Parral with it's big windows and good restaurant.
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| Parral |
Parral to Creel - August 1st, 2015
Last year I rode through Guachochi, this time I decided to go through San Francisco de Borja. This road does not exist on the Garmin maps. When I stopped in San Francisco de Borja to confirm that it is paved through to Creel I was told, emphatically, not to go that way. I've heard this before, about other roads on which I had no problems, but this time I decided to re-route. I discovered when I got to Creel that there is a new road there, and it is definitly a major drug transportation route. Also, It's not clear where the road actually goes. One report is that it goes from near San Francisco de Borja to near Guachochi. In my limited Mexico experience, it's unlikely that I would have had any problems, but this time I detoured.
In Creel I stayed again at the wonderful Hotel La Troje de Adobe, with the charming owners Memo and Anjelica.
In Creel I stayed again at the wonderful Hotel La Troje de Adobe, with the charming owners Memo and Anjelica.
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| Creel |
Creel and Sisoguichi - August 2nd, 2015
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| Creel |
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| Sisoguichi, Jesuit / Tamuharu Church |
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| Sisoguichi |
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| Hotel La Troje de Adobe, Creel |
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| Waiting out the rain |
Creel to Hermosillo - August 3rd, 2015
I departed after a delicious breakfast of fresh mango and banana covered with yoghurt, strong sumatran coffee, and blue corn tortillas covered with fresh picked greens and mexican cheese. Thank you La Troje de Adobe. The morning was cool, the road winds through pine forests and steep mountains. As the road descends the landscape turns to valleys with small farms and ranches and the occasional timber mill, then tree and cacti covered mountains. Past Yecora, the road is spectacular. Thre is only light traffic, the surface is good, and the views are beautiful. There must have been heavy rain the day before because there were multiple small landslides blocking one lane. Along this route I met the president of the Mexican Iron Butt Association, having a smoke next to his goldwing by the side of the road.
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