Tuesday, March 31, 2020

Mexico - July 20th, 2019

Morelia to Guanajuato (110 miles)

We, the moto and I, have traveled many miles at this point, are fairly well worn, and are missing some parts. We have patina. In Mazatlan I decided my daily schedule, from that point on, would include a leisurely breakfast and a destination where I could arrive by 4pm, or so. In each destination worth lingering, I would stay two nights. Also, I threw out my Itinerary. The afternoon before I depart a place I look at my map and decide what looks most interesting within a 3 or 4 hour ride. And there I go.

Guanajuato. Abandon hope all ye who rely on GPS. You must stop and converse with the people who live here.

Mexico - July 21st, 2019

Guanajuato I hate you - Guanajuato I love you

Your drunken tourists kept me awake all Saturday night! I didn’t make the effort to find something other than the tourist bar with expensive cervezas. I could barely move through the crowds packing your most famous streets and squares. It is too loud, all the time!

On a lovely, quiet Sunday morning I wandered your beautiful, steep, hillside alleys and went to a catholic mass in your cathedral. I was the only tourist.

Guanajuato, your moods, like your streets, are twisted and tunneled and piled on top of each other.

Mexico - July 22nd, 2019

Guanajuato to Zacatecas (184 miles)

I almost made it to Zacatecas before the afternoon tormmenta electrica. I hired a taxi at the highway bus station to lead me down into the old town along steep, twisty, slippery cobblestone streets.

Mexico - July 23rd, 2019


The old bull ring, now an exclusive hotel, and once a favorite getaway of El Chapo, or so I'm told.

Francisco Goitia

Julio Ruelas, Zacatecano

Mexico - July 24th & 25th, 2019

Zacatecas to Durango (179 miles)

A beautiful, cool, high elevation ride through ranch-land to Durango.


As with so many cities, the edges of the historical center are much better than the Centro Historico itself.

Looking down on the main drag, Av 20 de Noviembre, towards the Centro Historico and the Cathedral.

The "Grand Hotel Elizabeth".

Museo General Francisco (Pancho) Villa

The Hotel Gobernador

Mexico - July 26th, 2019

Durango to Mazatlan (159 miles)

I rode the quota, toll road, this time. I have ridden the libre in the past. Cold clear morning leaving Durango, crossing the high suspension bridges, and delving deep into the mountains in the long tunnels, before landing at the hot and humid coast. A little crazy in places,  jockeying for position with slow logging trucks and mini-van drivers in a rush.  As usual 2 lanes are used as 3.  Eventually I passed them all, at slow speed on the shoulder, at the mile long back up for the toll booth near the coast.

In Mazatlan, from the roof top bar of the Best Western in Olas Atlas (where I did not stay), the somewhat obsequious barman asked: “Are you traveling for business or pleasure?” ... “There’s a whole lot of pleasure down there” he said, extending his hand as if giving a benediction to the city below.